From watches to rings and from chains to pendants, jewelry has been one of the most steadfast and ever-evolving elements of pop culture. Hip-hop loves jewelry, and a rapper's chain game is almost as important as their pen game when it comes to cultivating an image and brand. I chopped it up with Izzy The Jeweler from NYC Luxury to discuss Nardo Wick's new chain, the stories behind iconic chains for the late Virgil Abloh, Drake, and Lil Baby, and the special something that keeps people coming back.

How did the Nardo Wick collaboration happen?

He saw all the work that I did with [Lil] Durk, and he also had a song with him. He reached out to me, and we started brainstorming ideas, but the project kept getting delayed. This business deal didn't go through, but we don't break the bridges. So, he circled back to me a couple months later saying, "Yo, we got to kill it. I'm ready. I'm ready for you." Like I said, he wanted to make a quick piece, so we got to work and I did some research. I added the bullet into the piece and thought, "I gotta make it a little spicier." So, then I added the bullet with the skeleton in it, and then we added the chopper in it. The piece is huge. It's a five-inch piece. It's accompanied by a Miami Cuban link, all honeycomb. A very interesting project. He's a very humble kid. Easy to work with.

You guys were able to convey the eerie energy of Nardo's music through different elements of the piece. Do you guys often try to convey the artistry of the music through the piece that you're creating?

Yes. I made an emoji chain for [Drake]. I find it interesting that we can actually create art with one of the finest metals and the most precious stones in the world. We're taking gold and diamonds and creating art out of it. I made a piece for Virgil, inspired by his canary yellow clothing line. It started just as Lumière from Beauty and the Beast, and then it just kept getting more and more artsy. It went from the character to his envisioning of his clothing brand.

I've never had a client actually send me a real mold of an idea of the piece they wanted to make. There was minimal brainstorming and we were coming up with different ideas of how to position certain parts of the piece like one of the hands going straight and the other at a curve. You have a teardrop that looks like a wick, and it's falling and it moves. Then you have someone like Lil Baby. He had that album coming out (The Voice of the Heroes). He became the hero in the neighborhoods. He tries to help out where he's from. He tries to help other kids. I know he does donations all over, and feeds families and takes care of schools and stuff like that. So, we made sure that piece included a cape.

Do you prefer when an artist is really hands-on in that way?

Yeah, I love it. That's what I love the most. I hate getting on phone calls with artists or with anybody I'm dealing with on a custom piece. I like to get them on a FaceTime, so I get to see their expressions. It's more hands-on. I hate phone calls. I'll be like, "Yo, FaceTime me for a second. Let me show you this. Let me show you that I'm adding this. I'm adding that," just to explain it a little bit better. Sometimes what I'm envisioning and what they're envisioning are two different things. So what I have in my head, they won't understand. So I'll have to explain it to them face to face.

You're working with artists who are statistically the biggest in the world like Drake, and then you have someone who's at the beginning of their mainstream run like Nardo Wick. When you're working with a bigger star does your approach change?

For me, there's pressure for everybody that I work with. I'm always under pressure. Yeah, it's fun and games, but at the end of the day, this is my livelihood. This is my name and my reputation. People know that I'm always zoned in. I got to make sure this the best fucking piece ever made.

What's the most complicated design request you've ever gotten for a chain?

I would probably say Drake's chain because we had to figure out how to make a chain that didn't have links attaching to the emojis. He wanted to chain just strictly emojis, so we had to figure out the movement that goes into the chain, so that it flows and sits on the neck properly. There were a lot of mechanical issues that we were coming across, but we resolved it. It was fun at the same time because it was a challenge for me. I like challenges. We like to push ourselves to the hardest limits.

Do you listen to the artist's music in preparation for the design of the chain?

No, I don't do that. I mean, I listen to the music, but that's just because I like hip-hop.

What role do you think jewelry plays in pop culture?

I think it plays a very big role in culture in general. It's important for everybody who likes to express themselves. Like me, personally, I love custom pieces. I have three or four that are personally mine. Even if I don't wear all of them, they're like trophy pieces. Like, I started with a small one, and it just reminds me of where I came from and where I'm at now. It's all about preference. Some people like more finished products, some people like custom products, some people just like a simple cross or a Jesus head or a religious piece. Some people just like to go beyond and just really express their artistic visions and bring it to life, which is what I love.

What's the most requested style?

For chains, Cubans are timeless. You can never go wrong with a Cuban, it's not something that somebody will get tired of. Plain or iced out, it's something that I don't think will ever go out of style.

Who are some artists that you'd like to work with in the future?

Future.

Have you ever worked on a collection of chains with a specific artist? And if not, how would you envision that looking?

We're actually in the works concerning something like that. I can't disclose too much information.

Can I get a little hint? Male rapper, female rapper?

Yes, it's a male rapper. We sign NDAs on this side, my brother! [laughs]

Why NYC Luxury? Why do you think you guys have reached the apex of the convergence of fashion, jewelry, and music? Why do people keep coming back to you?

We're always pushing the limits with this jewelry stuff. I'm not that jeweler who wants to just make you a piece. I'm always looking for the best manufacturers. I'm always looking for the best diamond dealers. I'm always looking to improve my work. I'm never happy with what I make. I have a team of designers. We're always brainstorming about cool ideas that are gonna make your piece extravagant. I'm gonna make sure you have the best product for your money. I'm not a commercial jeweler. Our craft is very high-end. Quality is very high. That's why you choose NYC Luxury.